I need to purchase either the 3M Segmented Brush for my 17" Mastercraft swing machine or the Cimex ceramic tile & grout Brushes for my Cimex 19" Which one in your opinion cleans the grout lines best? I would also think the Cimex will be easier and less stressfull to operate than the swing machine.

I’m not familiar with the 3M brush that you mentioned. But I’ll say this; I’ve never seen a 3M product that wasn’t good. So I’d suspect that this brush is good too.

The Cimex approach would be less fatiguing than a rotary machine. The Cimex is super for T&G because of its planetary action, plus the head swivels, and the brushes/drivers flex on account of the rubber grommets that attach them to the machine. The flex enables the Cimex's brush bristles to flow into the grout and textures of un even floor surfaces. Here are a couple of items that will make your Cimex perform well on T&G. BTW our new T&G cleaner is kick-butt powerful.



http://www.excellent-supply.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4805%5FBrushes&cat=1



http://www.excellent-supply.com/proddetail.asp?prod=HD%2DCleaner&cat=16



http://www.excellent-supply.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Cimex%2DWeights&cat=16






Rick Gelinas
encapman

Rick, I have the material ( black vinyl lawn edgeing ) for a splash guard on my 19" Cimex, how wide / diameter should it be? and what should I use to keep it together? plastic bolts?

Mike

Which Cimex are you using, the 400 or the 880 rpm unit?

The 880 has a full bell housing or shroud. If that’s the one you have then cut it so that it will overlap one or two inches. This way you can get an exact measurement by taking this slightly longer than necessary piece and put up in-between the white rotating platter and the housing. This may seem obvious, but the part you’re inserting is the thin side not the tubular side. At that point mark it so that you can re-cut it so that the ends will just meet when it’s mounted as outlined above. Then, CAREFULLY, with another piece of edging take about a 3 inch section of the edging and cut the tubular part off of the top of it. Then take that tubular part and put a single slice lengthwise from one end of that 3 inch piece to the other. This is going to become a male connecting piece. Roll it just a little bit tighter so that it will fit into either tubular end of your splash guard and connect the two ends together. It might help to soften the ends of the splash guard by carefully warming the plastic a bit with something like a flood light or bright light bulb. This will actually work for the 400 or the 880. but with the 400 the length is not as critical. For the 400 you actually want it a little bit bigger to fit around the whole head.

Clear as mud; right?

I have made them with varying types of connecting screws and pop rivets; none of them work as well as what I outlined above. Give it a try; it will probably cost you less than $20 to make this yourself. You might even have all the parts lying around your garage or shed. Of course there is always option 2, send me $120 and I’ll gladly make you one. LOL

David Gelinas
Marbleguy

bought all the stuff at Hdepot. The clamps were $2.00 each.

james