What do you HWE guys use to get rid of Juice,wine,punch etc on your carpets. I have been using different spotters like red relief and a heat transfer with mixed results. Is there some foolproof way to clean up these stains?


Ralph

You're using the correct techniques already. This is where we see the difference between a "spot" and a "stain". From what I've observed, red stains can be a challenge. Here's why it sometimes presents a problem. With red beverages such as fruit punch drink spills, you're normally dealing with a synthetic red DYE. And since it's a dye, that's exactly what it wants to do to the carpet, it wants to dye the carpet fiber. Therefore if you're dealing with a nylon carpet that doesn't have sufficient acid dye blocker treatment, or worse yet a wool carpet, you may not be able to eliminate 100% of the red color because it has done it's job and dyed the fiber. I would explain to the customer that they have actually spilled a dye on their carpet, and make them aware that they may not see 100% removal of the stain.




Rick Gelinas
encapman

All are different mate.

Fresh juice as opposed to cordial, etc;

Wines can have tannins in them.

Various punches can have sugar, (Fructose), oils, (Cream), and a variety of other elements that you have to contend with, including food dyes.

I do use different methods to remove different stains.

Again, someone else may have tried Granny's sure fire remedy.

I am not aware of one-spotter-knocks-all-stains available.

But then again, I'm down under.

Best of luck.

Shorty.

Releasit(regular-DS-Punch)
Bac-Out
Vac-away(spotters)
Masterblend(Magic)
With those products you can handle anything that comes your way.
Top shelf products from Top shelf companies!

Red Releif works best on artificial food color in many beverages. Stain Magic will work better on natural colors such as wine. There is also a lot to the proper technique. Rinse out any other chemiclas used as the chems may react to other products in the carpet. Apply to dry carpet. The stain remover will need to soak in as far as whatever caused the stain. Fibers only hold so much moisture. If they are wet or damp, the stain remover tends to sit on the surface rathern than soaking in. Fine tuning the use of temperature, light, time, volume of chemical etc. can really affect the outcome.

Scott Warrington

Scott Warrington
Tech support Bridgepoint & Interlink Supply

Some good points above. My thinking is to begin with a digester since what you are dealing with is basically a food, and food is organic, and responds well- in most cases I used a digester such as Bac-Out.

Sugars, starches, etc, basically proteins can be digested, and in many cases the dye comes out with the digesting action, but not always.

In cases where that does not work, then I go to other types of chemicals.

Nothing is going to work 100% of the time, too many variables.

So... you need several weapons in your arsenal, in order to deal with the variables.

In a lot of cases, if the majority of the deposit is removed dry, before applying anything, let's say catsup for instance, what is left can be removed easier than if the product was applied to the total deposit present.

Most cleaners I have seen, put the spot remover on the spot without attempting to remove most of it dry, which is a mistake, in my opinion.

Liquid deposits such as wine, kids beverages, etc, and urine, which is mostly water, and a small percent of solids remaining, including various dyes, sugars, etc cannot be removed dry, usually. I would apply the digester to the dry carpet- or furniture- deposit, then a stain remover or oxidizer, depending on what I was dealing with.

Gary

For red (usually Kool-Aid) stains I use Red Relief and heat transfer. However, most guys use an iron and towel for heat transfer with marginal results. Well I had marginal results that way too.

I went to Wally World (OK Wal-Mart) and bought a Conair steamer for $25.00. I have used the steamer only on nylon cut pile (most residential carpet).

I have been able to lay the steamer wand directly on the carpet and let it sit. You can even left it slightly (1-2 inches) to check your progress without interuppting the heating and therfore your accelerated chemical process (that's the reason why the iron gets marginal success- too many cleaners pick to iron up too soon and stop the heat transfer to check and make sure they are'nt creating Chernobyl in the carpet).

Just be careful to not go overboard you can bleach out the color if you get carried away.

Enjoy,

Del Scrivner
Owner/Operator
Cowboy's Carpet Care