I'm hoping a few of you might have some tips for how to get the hottest water possible mixed in my multisprayer for doing resi work.

My normal procedure has been to have 6 or 8 pre-mixed 2 gallon jugs in my van when leaving for the day so I wouldn't have to mix any more all day long. The problem is then the solution is luke warm for the first job and room temperature the rest of the day. I keep hearing how much better these products would work if I were able to get the water really hot, so I'm wondering how you go about it...

The options seem to be:
1) fill a couple of jugs at the custy's home. Tell them we use a low moisture system, but do need some access to hot water. Then fill the number of jugs at their home that looks like will be needed.
2) Get to custys home, empty one or two ms jugs into a bucket, plug in bucket heater, then when hot pour back in using funnel. I tried this once, this "might" work with water but with mixed product creates a veritable bubble bath!
3) find some new container with a bigger opening that a bucket heater can fit into, then plug in for a while at each job, then pour into ms jugs using funnel.

What do you guys do? This is a lot of hassle to get hot encap juice, but may be worth it? Do you have a better way?

Thanks!
-Grant

Grant,
I bought an external water heater for my porty. although it can only heat so much at the time, (depending how fast it is sprayed) it keeps up well with the flow of the porty (100 psi maybe 1-gallon per minute)

This device might endure such a use. In such case, I'd simply use the spryaer portion of my porty to apply. In fact, I might just try this.

I personally wouldn't worry about hot prespray. Once it hits the carpet the heat dissipates so rapidly, I don't think it makes a noticeable difference. If applying from a tank through pads (as with the Cimex) the heat may make more of a difference, even though I still don't worry too much about it. The best use of heat would probably be in the HWE extraction process in my opinion, since there is less time for it to dissipate.

I use a bucket and bucket heater, after inspection, fee is agreed upon etc. I figure 300 sf per gallon. I have measured and know what square foot I'm cleaning. I do add alittle extra for just in case. Anyway before vacuuming I bring my bucket and fill with desired amount of water and insert the heater(no solution at this time) I vacuum bring other materials in etc. locate my Cimex where I'll start install the pads plug into the wall, last thing I do is add chemical to my empty tank( with flow valve off to prevent putting straight chemical down the flow tube) on the Cimex then pour in my hot water this avoids the sudsing you were talking about and away I go. Most residential can be cleaned with hot tap water. I heat mine for 2 reasons 1) Customers expect hot water they know it cleans 2)Hot water will give you an edge creating faster cleaning less effort. Just my opinion.

when i run out of water i always fill at the clients place - be it a resi or commercial client.

it's no big deal. if you act like you are putting them out, they may think that you are.

thanx --- Derek.

If I am doing resi work, most of the time I am going to extract. I will use the customer's hot tap water for prespray. I have an inline heater for the extractor which will heat the solution to about 200 degrees.

If it's a commercial job, I heat the water with the bucket heaters and add the DS to the water just prior to filling the tank on the Cimex.

Question. Is there any heat being generated by the spinning of the pad on the carpet? If so does it help the molecualr activity of the cleaning solution?