Last night was the first time i used my cimex machine and it cut my time from 5 hrs with rx20 to 2 1/2 hrs without using any gas. Some questions i have are I used one gallon of releasit not ds for about 4200 sqft. Is that ok. I also worn down the fiber plus pads. What should it look like and how do i know when i need to change them. They looked really worn. One last thing is the chemical trigger is really sensitive. If I push on it a little some times it comes out alot and sometimes it doesn't come out at all. Is the a adjustment or does anyone have any recommendations. O one last thing. They said some spots on the carpet are still wet and its been over 10 hrs. The wet spots are the places where there was spots or dirty. thanks. I am going to go back for a follow up.

Last night was the first time i used my cimex machine and it cut my time from 5 hrs with rx20 to 2 1/2 hrs without using any gas.

How cool is that!


Some questions i have are I used one gallon of releasit not ds for about 4200 sqft. Is that ok.

Yep, with regular strength you're right in line. You may have gone just a shade higher than normal, but not too far off. You should be able to average 300 sq ft per gallon of diluted rtu.


I also worn down the fiber plus pads. What should it look like and how do i know when i need to change them. They looked really worn.

The pads normally last approximately 3-5 hours of run time. So your pads should be getting pretty close to spent. But don't replace them sooner than you need to. you can run them till they're about 1/4" thick - basically down to nothing. Even if they start to look scrappy, keep on using them till they're used up.


One last thing is the chemical trigger is really sensitive. If I push on it a little some times it comes out alot and sometimes it doesn't come out at all. Is the a adjustment or does anyone have any recommendations.

You'll get the feel for the trigger as you gain experience. Keep in mind that it's gravity fed, so when the tank is full it will flow a little faster than when the tank is near empty. My advice is to play with feathering the trigger and you will quickly get comfortable with the way the solution runs through the system.


O one last thing. They said some spots on the carpet are still wet and its been over 10 hrs. The wet spots are the places where there was spots or dirty. thanks. I am going to go back for a follow up.

That is definitely NOT right. It should have been dry within a couple of hours. If you have wet patches after 10 hours you have put down way too much product in some areas. Try to be more consistent with your flow. More heavily soiled areas should never get more solution - they just should just get more scrubbing.

And make sure you avoid turning off the machine abruptly, or it will leave 3 wet spots on the carpet. When you turn off the machine - keep the head spinning for several seconds so that you can spin out the excess solution from the head and pads. After you have spun it for several seconds you then turn the machine off.

All in all, it sounds like all you need to do is to make some minor adjustments in your technique. And as you gain just a little more experience, the entire process will become very second nature to you. The biggest thing is just becoming more proficient with feathering the flow of solution. And that's not hard to do at all. So just play with it a little with the thought of using a little less solution and you should get the hang of it on your next job.

And if you have questions please don't hesitate to call me. I'm here to help






Rick Gelinas
rick@excellent-supply.com

In regards to the trigger I barley pushed on it and sometimes it foamed a lot and sometimes it wouldn't come out. There should only be a light foam coming from the machine when cleaning right. Sometimes I had way to much foam. Would that mess up the ecap process? Now i know not to use more solution just more scrubbing. The carpet looked brighter and it smelled great. I tried to flip the pads but it didn't want to stick to the worn side. thanks for your help.

"In regards to the trigger I barley pushed on it and sometimes it foamed a lot and sometimes it wouldn't come out. There should only be a light foam coming from the machine when cleaning right. Sometimes I had way to much foam. Would that mess up the ecap process? Now i know not to use more solution just more scrubbing. The carpet looked brighter and it smelled great."

Keep in mind that it's a gravity feed solution-fed system. It takes a couple of seconds for the "bowl" of the machine (the blue drive deck) to fill up with solution and then disperse through the pads. Conversely it takes a couple of seconds to deplete the solution from the pads and the "bowl". So there's always a time delay. You just need to keep that in mind and plan accordingly. In other words, realize that it's going to take a couple of seconds to get the cleaning heads wet with detergent. And it's going to take a couple of seconds to use up all the detergent that's already inside the bowl. If you'll keep that slight time delay in mind, you'll do fine - without the wet and dry scenario you described.


"I tried to flip the pads but it didn't want to stick to the worn side. thanks for your help."

I've never had success flipping worn pads either. I don't recommend flipping pads. Just use 'em on the initial side until they're worn too thin to use any more.


With a just little practice, you'll have all the Cimex dance steps down pat and you'll find the ol' girl is a lovely dance partner









Rick Gelinas
rick@excellent-supply.com

If the carpet is still wet after 10 Hrs. you put way to much juice down. They should be dry to the touch within 1 hr. You might have a wicking problem now even with the encap detergent. Do a Search for Ricks Spill Stain removal post. Unless he wants to post it again. Also it takes some getting used to the trigger on the Cimex. You should only be putting down a very light foam and then make dry passes just tapping the trigger to keep the pads lubed. I change my pads when they are about 3/16" left. I also flip them half way.

Hey Rick,
I guess we were typing at the same time....

You can practice on a hard floor to see how much chemical (use appropriate cleaner and pads)is being dispensed. It's hard to tell on carpet when you are getting familiar with the machine.

Depending on the building, I will use a low pressure sprayer.
Water stays hotter and easier to control distribution of chemicals.

Put some fans on the areas that are wet for air movement to speed drying wet areas.

Rick is right about only needing some minor tuning. It won't be long until you will be off and running.

Jim

Another way is to turn down the flow valve that is below the solution tank and just hold the handle. That will allow a constant stream of solution that is the right amount. I do that sometimes, it depends on the carpet, conditions and the job.

Try the Releasit DS, it works better and a better dilution ratio per savings. Get some punch and use it for a pre-spray. Remember to vac before you do the job, that way you removed a lot of soils, and your solution works on the stuff the vac can not get out.

I have also had the long dry times at times. I find that most of the jobs that I have problems with like that are offices with furniture in them. Would a Pressurised System like what is on Some of the op Machines out there Be a better solution?

Are there any plans on Putting a Pressurized system on The Cimex?

Do i need to pre spray before every job? I hope I will learn the machine so i dont't have to pre spray. I think i am going to buy a bottle of enap punch for my hwe, What else is it good for, What foam action should you see from the machine. LIght foam or little foam? I didn't get a chance to go back but i am going on tues because they said there is some spots that didn't go away. What do you recommend for the spots with out having to take the machine back. I have a 1 gal potable i use for spots. Thanks for all the help.

Do i need to pre spray before every job? I hope I will learn the machine so i dont't have to pre spray. I think i am going to buy a bottle of enap punch for my hwe, What else is it good for, What foam action should you see from the machine. LIght foam or little foam? I didn't get a chance to go back but i am going on tues because they said there is some spots that didn't go away. What do you recommend for the spots with out having to take the machine back. I have a 1 gal potable i use for spots. Thanks for all the help.

"Do i need to pre spray before every job"

Absolutely not. Just run the solution through the Cimex.

"I think i am going to buy a bottle of enap punch for my hwe, What else is it good for"

Encap-Punch is a 3-in-1 encap product. It is an amazing encap pre-spray! It can also be used as an effective encap rinse detergent. And it can be used as a deep cleaning encap bonnet/pad cleaner.

" they said there is some spots that didn't go away. What do you recommend for the spots with out having to take the machine back."

That would be EXPECTED if it was still wet 10 hours later. You SOAKED the spots. You never want to soak the spots! Follow the instructions below TO THE LETTER, and you can eliminate recurring spots once and for all. And yes, you're most likely going to need to return with the Cimex to do this properly.


Spill Stain Remedy:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/228309/thread/1137383582/Spots+coming+back







Rick Gelinas
rick@excellent-supply.com

Good stuff everyone. I will soon be learning the ropes of the Cimex, so will keep all these things in mind.