What is your procedure for cleaning with DS, How do you do it?

Is it easy, what about head rest areas and the arms of the furniture that gets really soiled?

Any before and after pics?

Thanks

I did about 160 pcs of furniture last Feb and it worked great. I mixed it very strong at 4 ounces in 2L but I was just following what a trusted friend told me to do. It worked so well I did not want to change what I was doing but I must state I was using it as a pre teatment followed by hot water extraction.

Do all uph by hand using DS. Love it. Customers love it.

nough said.

As a result of my recent experience with DS (as early as this morning) I can assure you the stuff works.

My procedure: I fill a hand pump (the quart sized ones at Lowes) to the suggested ratio.

I don't care what the fabric is, I care how it will respond to DS so I test by wetting an area the size of a quarter somewhere not important. I let that dry complete (do this at estimate)

I prevac the snot outta the uph. (This is crucial)

Assuming DS is safe for the fabric, I lightly mist the area to be cleaned, I mix the same ratio in a 3 gallon bucket and whip into a foam. I work the stained areas with a bone or gum getter to losen, then, using a horse-hair brush I lightly scrub a 3 foot area. Nice lather. Wipe with white towel, vacuum, wipe, dry.

I dip the brush into the bucket and shake off the excess so it does not drip. My process is not dry nor is it wet....it is dret. :)Dries in an hour or so.

I have found that being certain to work in a systematic way insuring the entire area is cleaned even is another key. Why? Because the dirty side will stick out like a dead bird in the punch bowl.

I use a 16 gallon Ridgid wet vac with the extra hose found at HD. I have attached an old upholstery tool that I removed the jet from. This tool has a clear head so I can see the dirty 'extract' I repeat until nothing but clear foam is removed.

I treat gum and other stains first and rinse with clear water.

I also make it a point to wipe the non-fabric areas down well with a towel.

I have had huge success selling this to offices since the method is rather silent. I push the 'sanitizing' button.

I also have a low moisture tool and porty extractor. However, the method explained above is superior in all but the nastiest of upholstery. However, the low moisture tools does allow much faster dry times. It is also noisier. By far.

Having used this process much as of late, I am finding it easier to gain access into offices before found difficult. The silent thing is key as is the sanitizing word.

Once in, I nail the carpet.

I have to honestly admit here, women jump on this service. Recently I did an insurance office wherein the owner/agent has had her chair for 20 something years. She was in tears. "It looks brand new!Oh my God it looks brand new!" I sold ALL of the women there on cleaning their home furniture. and...I will get the carpet/tile too.

DS is the best kept secret out there for upholstery.

A while ago, I cleaned a doctors office with my Cimex. When I was done and had everything packed away, the manager called me and asked me if I was going to clean the 15 waiting room chairs. I said yes and mixed up some DS in a spray bottle and applied it to chairs and brushed them with a stiff brush that created a nice foam and toweled them off. The chairs looked great and only took me 20 minutes.

I do eventually want to get the drill brush for doing upholstery.

why?

Why not ??

Ooroo,

Shorty.

I've seen the light, and changed my wicked ways.
www.get.shorty.com.au

Why why not?

I am not trying to be smart. I am just unclear why to or not to use it.,

It was an honest question.

I did not understand your question.

Some situations I find are definitely better to use an encapsulation system.

Matter of fact, I just did a Doctors office myself on Friday night with my trouble 'n strife, Delia.

First we vacuumed all the chairs, approximately forty of them, then vacuumed the carpet, direct stick wool.

That's different.

Delia started to pre-spray the chairs while I cleaned the first nine.

For this we used a pump up five litre sprayer, combined with our Makita variable speed sander.

She then went ahead and pre-sprayed, then cleaned the rest of the chairs whilst I got started on cleaning the carpets.

I used my Cimex and Grey Pads with Releasit DS and a smidgin of Eucalyptus oil.

By the time I had finished the three surgeries, office and two passage ways, she had nearly finished all the chairs in reception.

I packed most of the gear up, she finished and put the rest away while I finished the carpet.

We did not start this job until six pm, at which time the air conditioning turns off automatically.

As Saturday was a holiday, we were unable to leave drying fans on site.

In situations like this, it is impractical to use hwe.

It would have been impossible to use our truck mount due to the location of the surgery in the middle of a large shopping mall.

We also would not use a portable, due to:

* Noise factor.
* Humidity problems.
* Lack of waste water disposal areas.
* Lack of ventilation for WOOL carpet to dry.
* Very strong probability of carpet still being damp and stinking to high hell when the surgery is re-opened.
* Excessive set-up and take-down times, including transporting all equipment in and out of the mall.

This is now the third time we have cleaned this surgery.
We are the only ones asked back for a second clean.
We are also the only ones that did not use hwe.

There are many more reasons which, if you care to email me, I will advise of these to you.

If you like, you pick a situation & I will give my honest opinion.

Ooroo,

Shorty.

I've seen the light, and changed my wicked ways.
www.get.shorty.com.au

Ah...I see.
Thanks.

I might be wrong, but Phil, were you asking why to use a drill driver or other type of hand electrical tool versus just using a brush?

Yes. I was asking why and when. Or, how to know when to use and when not to.

If doing it by hand without a drill/polisher works well, why change it?

I would think the main difference would be you won't get as tired from all that manual scrubbing and it might cut through dirty areas faster. Of course there is a little more potential for problems if you are too aggressive with the drill/polisher.

The results are what matters and if you are getting that, then it would just be to see for yourself if you like using a hand power tool better or not. That and the possible increase in production rate, which is important.

I use a cheap car polisher, the blue one from Simonize!

I slap a clean bonnet on it and pre-spray the chair fist, put on a hand dusting cloth or microfibre mit or then wet the bonnet, and put on the chair and turn it on.

1. pre-spay
2. use a microfibre mit
and/or
2b use a bonnet on the blue Simonizer, op polisher (mine is the 8" two handled version - 10" was too big and more powerfull, so did not get that one.)

The cheap Simonize, I use because it has a little tourque, and a little slipability to it (clutch built in I think). The more pressue downwards the slower the op action is, so it does not hurt the fabric. Tried it on microfibre as well, with awesome results. Been using it for 2 years now with no problems as all.

Some I extract and some I do not, it depends on how nasty it is!