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Dry foam Soap residue
#1
Question 
Today was my first day I didn't feel like a hero cleaning with encap. I had cleaned a dirty carpet that was previously cleaned by the "dry foam" guy. The residue from the previous cleaning was embarrassing! They had area rugs on top of carpet that actually felt glued to each other, yuk.Blush I presprayed with hydrox then scrubbed with crb and followed up with pad cap.. When it dried I had dirt on the surface like wick back. To correct I lightly sprayed hydrox and used damp bonnets wrung out in mop bucket to lift soil...I have cleaned carpet that was 10 times worse and came out amazing so I'm thinking this was due to the previous sticky soap... So my ? is, what should I have done differently? I have hwe carpets with that dry foam residue and carpets still had tacky feel.
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#2
What pads are you using?

Did you wet the pads before you used them?
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#3
Heavy cotton loop...dry when I pad capped..when wicking appeared then wrung out wet.... Capet was dry 30 minutes after first cleaning so wasn't overwet. After second pad cap it took 1.5 hours to dry and wicking was gone
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#4
Hi Rob, I think the answer is in your comments...

(04-02-2013, 12:38 AM)Rob D Wrote: Today was my first day I didn't feel like a hero cleaning with encap.

I presprayed with hydrox then scrubbed with crb and followed up with pad cap.. When it dried I had dirt on the surface like wick back.

To correct I lightly sprayed hydrox and used damp bonnets wrung out in mop bucket to lift soil.

(04-02-2013, 03:27 AM)Rob D Wrote: Heavy cotton loop...dry when I pad capped..when wicking appeared then wrung out wet.... Capet was dry 30 minutes after first cleaning so wasn't overwet. After second pad cap it took 1.5 hours to dry and wicking was gone

It sounds like you didn't use enough fluid. We don't want to over-wet the carpet, but we do need to use enough juice to loosen, suspend and carry away the soil. What you described... pre-spraying, followed by a CRB, and followed with a dry bonnet - is using MINIMAL fluid. And in this case, it sounds like the carpet was very heavily gunked up with loads of residue from the previous cleaner. So it sounds like there wasn't enough liquid to get the job done.

Here are a couple of suggestions...
  1. Never use dry bonnets. It's much better to wet the bonnet and wring them out before using them. Using a wetter bonnet will actually pull soil more efficiently than a dry bonnet. A little bit wetter is better - when it comes to such a heavy soil load as you described.
  2. Throw away those loop bonnets and switch over to MicroBeasts. You will be blown away by the difference, I promise.
  3. Consider possibly using a better method of applying solution to the carpet than pre-spraying and then running over the carpet with a CRB machine. For example the Shower-feed system used by the Cimex machine allows us to apply a perfect amount of solution. Pre-spraying makes it harder to control the solution. Shower-feeding, or at least spraying while you're cleaning, is a better way of controlling the quantity of solution that you're cleaning with.
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#5
Thanks Rick, I should have added in comments that I used 360 fans to amplify dry time. I also have a duplex with solution tanks maybe in this situation it would be better. I do surface spray bonnet for a little lube but basically it's "dry". I have a 17" rotary and 16" lowboy, do they make the microbeasts in 17" and do you think they would stay under the lowboy? I was looking for thin absorbant pads that I can wring out and rinse in mop bucket. I did look into the superzorb but only come in 20". I plan to talk with customer today because the area rugs that where stuck on the carpet are loaded with soap(I did not clean) and they plan to put them back on the carpet. What is the best way to clean soap saturated braided rugs..in the past I have used garden hose, lots of water and pushed it out with wand,vac and dry. Can I just encap? Lots of questions sorry.
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#6
We now have the MicroBeasts in 13" 15" 17" 19" and 21" sizes.

Using wet bonnets/pads is important. It really works better when they're damp before using them. So douse 'em in a bucket, wring 'em out good, and go to work.

Releasit's polymer can absorb old detergent residues quite well. However if the carpet is fully loaded with residue - HWE may be a good first step to unload more of the heavy build-up. Then after it's been extracted you can follow up with encap cleaning.
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#7
Thanks Rick, I hope you understand I wasn't criticizing hydrox! I worship your products and was just looking for someone who had experienced similar situation... When I clean with your products the expression on customers face is as if I just parted the red sea! Do you think the micro beast will stay under a lowboy or should I just pad cap with 175..I love the crb and don't want to solely op. I scheduled to pick up area rugs and rinse with lots of water..
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#8
(04-02-2013, 01:10 PM)Rob D Wrote: Thanks Rick, I hope you understand I wasn't criticizing hydrox! I worship your products and was just looking for someone who had experienced similar situation...

Do you think the MicroBeast will stay under a lowboy or should I just pad cap with 175..I love the crb and don't want to solely op. I scheduled to pick up area rugs and rinse with lots of water..

I didn't take your comments as a criticism. Not at all. Shy
I understood that you were looking for suggestions.
And I hope my reply was just that, a helpful suggestion.
Because that's what I was going for. Big Grin

Yes, the MicroBeasts should adhere just fine to a LowBoy pad driver.
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#9
Rick I went back today fully expecting to have to redo this job and was amazed how the carpet felt...sticky was gone..customer was happy..thanks for your input.
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#10
Excellent! I'm not surprised though. Historically speaking, Releasit normally does a terrific job of encapsulating old detergent residues.
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