Hos Orbot cleaning residential Tile

[drytouch]

For Robert and Ed,

Robert, glad to hear you're enjoying the vapor steamer. They also do a great job of sanitary steaming mattresses. Talk about easy $. And the kill rate of mites and spores exceeds chemical treatments.

Ed, there are a number of Italian made lines out there; most are probably made by the same manufacturing combine and badged differently. They all look and operate pretty similarly, though Daimler is considered top of the line and priced accordingly.

I second the advice to buy Italian only. And yes, get only continuous operation.

As for keeping the pressure up, that's really just a rhythm of use thing; you'll get into the groove of how to trigger the machine fairly quickly.

Good luck!

[Ed E]

For Robert and DryTouch-

I have been checking into these machines since your posts.

As for finished hardwood floors, what is your experience? Are they safe on the finish?

How about upholstery? Any thoughts?

Thanks

[drytouch]

The key for hardwoods and leather cleaning is watch the heat and pressure.

These are not high pressure machines, but set on full, with almost 300 degree vapor heat, they can strip the paint straight out of leather furniture. I did it to my own leather sofa while experimenting with my machine.

Keep the pressure at about half and keep the attachment moving and you'll get excellent results. And don't bear down with arm pressure; it's not needed.

For fabric I use it mainly as a sanitizer b/c of the temp. Great for mattresses. I clean fabric furniture conventionally.

For hardwoods, the same advice. A little dab with do ya. These machines are quite powerful and you can't be fooled by the small size. Of course, if you want to get rid of all the slimy Bona and get straight back to the real wood, then go ahead and turn it up.

But generally, save the full pressure experience for tile, grout, marble and granite.

[Hoss]

Ed ~

I am still studying the science behind dry vapor steam. I have used it on solid white oak with a polyurethane finish. I have used it on automobile fabric after extraction. I have used it on microfiber and cotton/poly interior upholstery and also on mattresses - pillow-top and regular. ~ Although I would avoid memory foam or any of that sort of material. I have also used it on grout in combination with the Orbot on marble and ceramic tile and also on vinyl flooring. It cleaned each of those surfaces very effectively. I really like what it does on its own to vinyl / linoleum flooring.

When adding a new coat of Bona refresher or polyurethane, the surface must be cleaned very well. The surface may be scrubbed with a Fibermax pad and essentially scuffed so that a new coat will adhere well to that surface. I think the same thing *may* be done more effectively and efficiently with dry vapor steam. The surface temperature may be changed enough so that the old polyurethane coating will more easily accept a new coat. It may also be that with a microfiber towel instead of the rougher terrycloth - that fine scratches on a polyurethane coating may be lessened by bringing the surface to a malleable condition again.

I feel pretty comfortable cleaning any wood flooring with the dry vapor steam. But, I can't say categorically that it would be effective on all finishes and types of wood flooring. Some of the thinner veneers may not be that good to work with.

[Ed E]

Thanks to Robert and DryTouch for your input.

Two additional thoughts for you:

1) It would seem that an integrated wet vac with the unit would be desirable, cost not withstanding. It would save lugging two pieces of equipment around. Daimer has some integrated models. Does this make sense to you from a usage standpoint?

2) There is always a good deal of discussion on this forum about pet urine/poop on the carpet. HWE always seems to be the preferred method for rinsing and dis-infecting. Seems to me that the dry vapor approach would be superior in dis-infecting, given that it can penetrate the backing. Maybe it would still need to be rinsed. Any comments on this?

Thanks,
Ed

[Hoss]

Ed~

There is a very limited amount of water vapor produced - it is 95-96% dry. So, what you might mop up for most jobs could be absorbed by a wash cloth or hand towel. But, the water is so hot that most will still evaporate. I also like the portability of the unit as a stand-alone and I am not sure if the portability would be lost with an integrated shop-vac.

When doing ceramic tile and grout the process I use is: Prespray with an appropriate cleaner, follow with the Orbot with the brush, leave wet and blast and scrub the grout with the steamer, use the Orbot with a bonnet to clean up slurry and soap and buff, followed by the steamer again with a terrycloth bonnet on a triangle head along the sides and edges to remove spray on baseboards and any remaining residue. Whenever I do grout, I always advise sealing it afterwards ~ so if they opt for that - that will be the final step.

[drytouch]

Ed,

I've looked at the integrated vac units; generally the factory guys don't think their that much of an advantage.

There's not much moisture to vac but on dirty tile jobs there usually is a bit of grit, if needed after the steps Robert mentioned, just run a quick vacuum. But that wont be often and I usually skip the post cleaning buff step Robert uses and just go straight to microfiber mopping.

While you're micro-mopping, just put a couple of cotton bonnets under your feet and walk them and you'll dry out and de-grit just about everything.

The steamers can prepare old poly surfaces for new coats. With pressure and temp up, the old coats will opaque (keep at it and they will largely remove) and then look smashing with the new topcoat. Way easier and cleaner that using a scratchy pad.

I only use those first if there is some kind of built up residue.

---

PS on sanitizing bio-stains.

The steamer will sanitize anything you put it to, though I continue to be an enzyme man for protein based staining.

I haven't tried this yet, but some claim the steamers can relieve furniture dents in rugs. Basically, take the triangle head with no microfiber towel over it and apply the steam and agitate.

Somebody let me know it you try this b/f I do.

[Patrick]

I came across a chemical that just be good in this area. Proxy HDOX. It will work well on protien based areas. Perfect for kitchens. Plus a big difference on if it dries. Acidic cleaners if they dry will be a pain to take care of. But however proxy dries clean. I am goi g to give it a shot on any future tile jobs coming up.

---

I am sorry. It is Peroxy HDOX.

[RCC]

I've been amazed by the product Unbelievable(I get it through Waxie.) Cleans many floor types wonderfully, easily, and no rinse needed. Worth checking out(as long as you're not in AZ!)

[Greggy]

Agree.. Well, If you just can’t clean your home the way you would if it was your full time job, then consider hiring a residential cleaning service to take care of the cleaning for you. When you have professional cleaners coming over on a regular schedule, it makes for easy upkeep and significantly more time for you to spend on the things you actually want to do.

[Blue Ridge Floor Care]

Fried SPAM is the best...

[encapman]

You'll notice that Greggy has been "banned".
So in effect Greggy is "fried spam".