Pet Urine Stains & Encap

[Francis Coffie]

How do you encap speciallists out there deal with pet urine stains and odors? Can encap deal with this on its own or is a water claw still preferred/needed?

[encapman]

I've mentioned this topic in some earlier posts. Here it is again. Feel free to chime in with your personal observations too. There's more than one way to skin a cat spot.

DEALING WITH THE STAIN:
First of all, pet urine can be a challenge because the animal's urine can be affected by their diet, medications, colorings in their food, age and overall health of the pet, etc. Also the length of time that the urine stain has been on the fiber, as well as the condition and type of the fiber also factor into the equation. So there are a variety of conditions that can affect a urine stain. Sometimes they can be tenacious!

Yet most urine stains can be acceptably reduced or possibly eliminated (it's best to "under-promise"). The most effective product for urine stains is CTI's Stain Magic. Another excellent approach would be to treat the stain with Encap-HydrOx, mixed 1:3 with hot water. Or you can coax Encap-HydrOx into mimicking Stain Magic by first treating the carpet with the 1:3 mixture above, followed by blotting the spot with Encap-Spot. This approach works extremely well for treating urine stains, as well as other stubborn organic stains such as coffee and red wine.

I'd also like to recommend that organic nasties such as urine, vomit, blood, poop, etc. should all be flushed HEAVILY. Cleaning with pad/bonnet/encap/foam/shampoo is NOT sufficient to remove the bio-contaminants from the carpet. In fact, if the situation is severe enough - the pad should even be pulled and replaced, the under-floor should be sealed, and possibly the carpet will need to be replaced. This is simply a matter of health that I'm referring to. I want to stress this, because if we fail to address the health issues and someone gets sick, the fallout could be devastating to your business.

A basic spotting extractor like the Gecko can be extremely useful for flushing spots in the carpet. http://www.excellent-supply.com/Gecko-Sp...p_249.html

DEALING WITH THE ODOR:
For odor, you may need to use an Enzyme. The BEST product I've ever found is not something from our industry. But man it works well! For the odor I recommend: Nature's Miracle. We've owned a few cats. Keep in mind, that if there's even a trace of odor, the animal will usually return to the spot and repeat their dirty deed. So eliminating the odor is essential.

Nature's Miracle should be extracted after it's been allowed to soak out the spot. Nature's Miracle is what the name implies when it comes to cat urine, it's almost a miracle. It needs PLENTY of dwell time though. I normally cover the stain after soaking the area and allow it to sit for several hours. If you were providing this service for a customer, you'd need to book two appointments and charge accordingly.

I could also add that Odorcide is also effective on human and dog urine odors. However I think that Nature's Miracle is a little better for cat urine specifically. Cat urine has very potent odor characteristics that present a unique challenge. Here's a link to Nature's Miracle... http://www.natures-miracle.com/products/...urine.aspx


Hope this info is helpful!

[JuddBowers]

Rick said it. I can't think of anything to add, but just to reemphasize, UNDER-PROMISE!

[wjgo]

Assuming dyes weren't added to the diet enough that it made the urine system, these kinds of pet stains you should be charging extra for.

I have never been completely sold on enapping for residential carpets that are more than mildly dirty. And this is one reason why.

If you want to eliminate pet stains, and the odor, then you need to use these:

http://waterclaw.com/ The spotlifter product. The other product is for flood damage.

Bridgepoint's PetZone. http://www.bridgepoint.com/spec_sheets/c..._sheet.pdf

This is amazing. You use a few scoops in a 5 gal bucket, fill with a gallon or two. Then you just SOAK the stain area, let it sit, then attach the spotlifter to an extractor and extract it dry. If its an old house with a wood floor that might be used again, then maybe not soak as much and do it twice.

I was called to clean a dark yellow large pet stain from a near brand new white as snow carpet. When I was done, I had no idea where the spot originally was. This cleans the carpet, and the carpet backing. When stuff gets spilled onto carpets - its in the backing also - in fact, most of the liquid is going to be in the backing, and its disgusting to know how much of that urine is in the backing. If you are not physically removing the urine, and all the dried debris from it that caused bacteria to form whenever it gets wet again, its not being cleaned.

The waterclaw is no joke. Once that is set on the extractor, you will need some effort even after releasing some valves to putt the waterclaw from the carpet.

[Ed E]

Oddly enough, I got three calls for pet urine issues just today. I can't add anything else to what Rick has stated, other than the water claw is definitely worth having.

[jackiekmach]

How to Remove Pet Stains and Odors is big question for everyone, but you can easily remove pet stain from carpet through steam cleaning.

[NJP]

That's not completely true. It will take chemicals on some. JMO!

[Shorty]

That link from jackiekmach states NOT TO USE STEAM CLEANING TO REMOVE URINE STAINS.

It also has a lot of nonsense in it

I do not believe that a PROFESSIONAL carpet cleaner would take much notice of their home remedy solutions.

I pay good money, (also travel to the 'states to learn how to do things properly), as well as asking dumb questions on several forums when I want to know the correct answer to any problem.

Short 1



PS::: Thanks again Rick.

[encapman]

Yeah, I have my eye on Jackiemach. Looks very much like a possible spammer to me.

[Shorty]

My impression exactly Rick.

Short 1